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Help I'm new here!

Old new guy needs help
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Dave     Thanks so much for the advice. I ran all over last winter and avoided anything I was not sure about. No ice this winter . Have to go to Fl. 2/15 to 3/1. Will go to lake Simcoe Ont. ice fishing first of March. Thanks again Lynn
 
Hi Lynn,
As far as crossing ice to water and back, you can get away with quite a bit, but try to avoid sharp ice.  Smooth ice good, sharp ice bad.  6-8 inches of shelf is no problem but just be cautious.  Don't go too fast at first until you get comfortable with the ice conditions.  25 mph is fine.  It's easy to get going 40+ with a tailwind. When transitioning from ice to open water don't be going to fast because the water will create more drag and will tend to slow you down a little.  Apply a little more lift when going over water, because you won't need so much on ice.  Watch out for ice sheaves (pressure ridges) that poke up a foot or so.  Just find a smooth spot or a gap through them,  Go slow when in doubt.  Make sure to think safety ALL THE TIME when going out on a big frozen lake.  Take your phone, have some tools and a rope, full tank of gas. dress warm obviously.  Go with a friend or let someone know where you will be.  Come join us at Toledo bay ice cruise in February so you can go out with a group of experienced ice cruisers.  You're only and hour and half from Toledo I think. 

Dave Reyburn
President, Hoverclub of America
 
Thanks for the reply John, Sorry for the slow reply  I have been busy with bird hunting.  What steps would you go through to locate the ground contact line ?. I built the boat for ice fishing on Lake Erie . Some times you will encounter open leads , you can save miles if you can cross them. The water level is not always the same as the top of the ice. What is the best speed to cross at ? How much lower than the top of the ice can the water level  be and be able to cross with out damaging the skirt?. With the proper speed ? How wide of a lead do you think the boat would  " shoot" across with out damaging the skirt or me. Thanks so much Lynn Barnett
 
Just make sure your skirt drain holes are just above and aft of the skirt's ground contact line.  One way to increase skirt purging is to cut 2-3" round holes just aft of the ground contact line and inboard of the aft corners.  Add an anti-scoop flap ahead of the holes and glue it up a couple inches "upstream" of the ground contact line, but leave the flap open over the drain hole.  This will allow a greater volume of water to be purged than the inverted "T" slots. 

http://www.hovernut.com
Current Fleet: SEVTEC Prospector, FanTastic, Vanguard, Weber StarCruiser
Past Fleet: UH-15P, SEVTEC Utility, SEVTEC Scout
 
John       Thanks for your reply. At this my drive line is working very well, Its quiet, no vibration no slipping. I ran it on the river last week, I was having so much fun I forgot that the fuel tank had no warning light or beeper. I think that I may not have the location of the blow out holes correct, it seems to take longer than it should to get on plane. They are located 12 in down from the top edge of the skirt to the horizontal cut and 9in down to the start of the vertical cut. I checked the skirt no holes. I want to thank all of you for your help and support. Lynn Barnett.
 
Hi Lynn,
Kudos to you for building at your age!!  My Dad flew his StarCruiser 'till he was 70 or so.  He helped me build my 1st craft, a UH-15P.  Hey, is that back-side idler part of the plans as a "belt tensioner?"  That's the idler up near the thrust pulley.  That will definitely affect belt alignment and throw things out of whack!!  I've been building & operating "mule drive" propulsors for over 20 years, and a 'tensioner idler' has never been used!  The only way to properly tension a mule drive belt is to move the engine front/back, or move the prop shaft up/down.  The SEVTECs can also move the 90 degree idlers a bit back and forth for alignment and a slight bit of tensioning since single-belt drives are somewhat forgiving.   But, I'll tell ya, that idler up by your thrust pulley is your likely culprit!!  Throwing the belt's natural twisting tendency off-kilter.  The only thing you need on that belt are a couple "touch pads" mounted near the prop pulley, and down near the idlers to tame the belt from the engine's power pulses.  They're simply HDPE (plastic) blocks mounted/sandwiched between a couple flat bars.  We use them all the time in SEVTEC mule drives, and they work wonders by allowing the belt to conform to its natural twist, and keeping the belt tamed enough not to jump out of pulley alignment.  If you take a look at the pictures in the following thread in the SEVTEC Kits Forum, you'll see the Vanguard engine frame with idlers and pulleys mounted somewhat similarly to your UH, but also showing the upper and lower "touch bars" that tame the belt.
 
http://sevteckits.com/phpBB/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=270
 
BTW, Marquis provided some excellent guidance on belt alignment!!
 
If you're up for a bit of a drive, I'm sure Brad Cline would diagnose your issue lickety-split!  He lives just East of Columbus and is both a Machinist, and an avid hovercraft builder/enthusiast.  You can look him up in the Membership Directory.
 
Happy Hovering!!
John Carter

http://www.hovernut.com
Current Fleet: SEVTEC Prospector, FanTastic, Vanguard, Weber StarCruiser
Past Fleet: UH-15P, SEVTEC Utility, SEVTEC Scout
 
Lynn: Feel free to call me 615 904-5658 about the 14P issue.
 
The guy that built my 14P got the engine angle wrong. The thrust belt looked fine but it broke on a test run. I replaced both 5V 1120 and 5V 2240 belts. He must have used the wrong thrust belt so I had to elongate the thrust tensioner pulley slots to fit the correct belt. The engine had to be moved a little also. On the first run, the thrust belt was rolling over when it got to the engine pulley. I made two 1/4 inch thick spacers and put them under the rear engine mounts. The alignment is much better now and the belt stays in the pulley. The engine/ idler /thrust pulley alignment is more critical because of the short travel distance. I tightened both belts with a spring scale to 15 lbs tension at 1 inch deflection. I am reinforcing the bow eye and will be ready for a water trip/test.
 
Lynn,
 
Unfortunately it's not as easy as taking it to the nearest service center.  I'm wondering if club member Harry Elsasser would be willing to help.  He has a UH-14P that works great and is about 2 hours away from you in Ridgeway, OH.  If you look in the directory you can find his contact info.  Why don't you get in touch with him, tell him I referred you to him, and see if he's able to help.  I think he's probably the closest club member to you that would be familiar with that drive system.  If that doesn't work out get back to me and we'll see what we can do next.

Marquis Songer
HCA #5480
Terre Haute, IN
 
Thanks Marquis          I GIVE UP   I have tried everything. Do you know some place reasonable and with the skills that I can take it to  get it fixed . I have no faith in UH . I am in NE Ohio  driving is not a issue for me. Thanks Lynn
 
No, that's a little bit of an error on my part.  I forgot about the engine being at an angle.  The whole point is that the belt just needs to move straight into the pulley so it doesn't fall off or twist.

Marquis Songer
HCA #5480
Terre Haute, IN
 
   Marquis       From your diagram it looks like the motor pulley sits "flat". Mine sits at an angle with the aft edge lower that the front. Should I change this ? thanks so much Lynn 
 
Lynn,
 
That's ok.  Big storms came through dumping so much rain the river came up and flooded the rally site while we were all at the Saturday night banquet.  All events were cancelled on Sunday so everyone could make sense of things and clean up the mess. 
 
Use the groove on the pulley that allows the belt to run straight into the idlers.  If that alignment is off you'll jump the belt.  See attached diagram:
 


Marquis Songer
HCA #5480
Terre Haute, IN
 
Marquis        Family obligations made it impossible for me to get to Piqua. Was looking forward to meeting you. I have got the shaft bent and set in place. Before I put the thrust belt on should it be in the top or bottom grove on the motor pulley or can it go on either. Thanks Lynn
 
Yep, that's your problem.  The threaded rod needs to be bent so the idlers allow the belt to move straight to the prop shaft pulley.  I'm missing my sheet 2 of the 13p plans so I can't reference it right now, I may have it at work.  However, I don't believe the idler pulleys for lift are supposed to be bent, just the rear for thrust.  Here's a pic below.  I don't have a pic of the front because mine have been twin engine machines so I don't have the lift belt.
 


Marquis Songer
HCA #5480
Terre Haute, IN
 
    Thanks so much for your help. I have my idler pulleys in wrong. In order to get them to the correct angle do you put a 5/8in  bend in the shaft as I did for the fan idlers?. Is this something I missed in the plans?. Looking forward to meeting you.
 

Attachment(s):
I sketched up a quick diagram for you on what to look for.
 


Marquis Songer
HCA #5480
Terre Haute, IN
 
Hi Lynn,
 
I'll be at Hoverally and will be happy to take a look.  I'll have a safety green tshirt on because I'll be on the starting grid as a race marshal.  If I don't see you before racing starts try to catch me after.  I've built a lot of 13p's and am pretty familiar with them.  If you could post a few pictures of your drive system.  In the meantime check to make sure everything is aligned properly.  In the past I've had to fabricate some guides to keep the belt from jumping the pulley (see attached pic).
 


Marquis Songer
HCA #5480
Terre Haute, IN
 
It makes loading much easier. I t keeps the skirt from getting pinched. Where I load has a cross slope and has a tar and chip surface. The trailer tilts and even at hover it takes some dragging sideways  to keep the boat lined up as it goes up. I know that I was getting some skirt damage loading and unloading. I am 71 if I make it easier now the longer I will be able go later.
 
What are the wheels for?
 
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